Tom Hoy

I get asked quite a lot where my journey in menswear started, and if I’m honest I can’t give a really clear answer. As much of a cliché as it sounds, there isn’t just one moment. I worked for Pretty Green, Liam Gallagher’s shop, on and off for about seven or eight years, and that was my first proper job in menswear. And yes, for anyone wondering, I did have one of the silly haircuts. I went deeper into the world of subculture from there and I think, naturally, as you progress, a lot of people find their own avenue within a wider culture and what inspired it. Mine was American style, which eventually led me onto Ivy.

But even before that, when I was really young, I was obsessed with old films from the 60s, particularly the Sean Connery Bond era. British comedy was also a big part of my life at that time. I’ve always been, and still am, a huge Monty Python nerd. One thing that always struck me, past the storylines, was what people were wearing. I was that annoying guy fixating on the clothes on screen instead of the plot. People would say I dressed smartly but I never really thought of it that way. I was just wearing what I liked.

In a world of sponsored ads and fast content, you choose to delve deep into Ivy League culture through long-form work and your Substack. What is it specifically that interests you about the Ivy League style?

I think when I really like something, I tend to fall into it completely. It becomes its own little world for me. And I don’t think I’m alone in that. A lot of people are like that, especially if you’re someone who gets properly curious about things, whether that’s clothes, sport, music, or anything a bit niche. Ivy style just happens to be mine.

What fascinates me about Ivy is that, yes, it’s rooted in the 1950s and 60s American college campuses, but it’s so much bigger than that. People sometimes hear Ivy and imagine it’s just dressing like a professor or a student, but it stretches far beyond campuses. There are so many branches of it, and that is a big part of what keeps me interested.

I’ve always been drawn to history as well, and Ivy is full of it. Everything from its links to the American civil rights movement, to the Brooks Brothers boom of the 1980s, to how the style spread to Japan through GIs after the Second World War. There is a whole social history sitting underneath Ivy style. That is what keeps pulling me back. It is not just clothes, it is stories, context, and culture.

I noticed you help your friend at Auteur store at times and also work for Rivet & Hide. What’s the menswear landscape like in Manchester? There seems to be a nice circle of independents in the city.

Alex is a very good friend of mine and he runs the fantastic Auteur store in Chorlton, Manchester. I remember the first time I met him, I told him that this is exactly the type of store I had been looking for, and I still stand by that. It is very much a heritage clothing store, but the customers go beyond that niche. People buy from him because they appreciate well-made items. I also love how Alex has brought a bit of Ueno, Tokyo to the leafy suburb of Chorlton. I do not know many people with his level of passion and knowledge for what he does. I never just pop in either. I always end up there for at least an hour, sometimes longer.

Rivet and Hide is another fantastic spot in Manchester and a real presence in the Northern Quarter. It stocks brands that are almost impossible to find elsewhere, so for a denim nerd like me, it is tough to spend time there without buying something. Since I started working there alongside my freelance work, it has become a constant struggle not to empty my bank account. The team is amazing as well. I have made some great friends and we all share the same level of nerdy enthusiasm for clothes, but each of us brings something different to the table. I lean more towards the Ivy avenue, others towards a more rugged Americana look. I have also learned to do chain stitch hems on a Union Special machine, which scratches that tailoring itch I have always had. It is a great place to work and it is always a nice moment when someone comes in and says they read my blog. People often assume I am based in London because of Instagram, so when they spot me in the Northern Quarter on a rainy Sunday while shopping for Japanese selvedge denim, it always makes me smile.

We popped to Unitom and talked about Popeye’s new English edition. You visited Japan yourself over the summer and that trip inspired you to publish a zine. Are you hoping to inspire others to visit Japan and what motivated you to go into print?

Unitom is fantastic. I have been a fan of that shop for years and I even got to do a DJ set there once, which was really cool. It sits perfectly in Stevenson Square in the Northern Quarter and it is one of those places where you find familiar favourites like Popeye Magazine but also so many unique and niche publications. There are different scenes, different photography books, and it is just a great place to browse. The atmosphere is really calming too.

As for my zine, it has always been a personal goal of mine to see my work in print. I own so many books and magazines myself and I have been heavily inspired by creators like the Ivy favourite cartoonist Dick Carroll. The thought that someone could have my work on their bookshelf rather than just on a laptop or phone screen is a really exciting idea. I was never fully sure what topic I wanted to write about, since so much great work already exists, but when I visited Japan for the first time I realised I could use my own voice to share that experience in a meaningful way.

After our stroll, we talked about MARRKT and how the Daily Drop has become a lunchtime talking point. What draws you to pre-owned menswear and why does MARRKT stand out?

I am a true believer that clothes look best when they have been lived in. They should get better over time, and MARRKT really stocks the pieces that do that. One of my favourite items I have bought from them was a Made in USA Brooks Brothers lemon Oxford button-down. It is the perfect example of how a garment can improve with wear. The previous owner had already done the hard work. It is buttery soft, the colour has aged beautifully and it fits me perfectly.

What I like about MARRKT is that it does not just sell any old brand. If I wanted that, I could walk into plenty of other vintage shops. But when I am after something more niche, like The Real McCoys, Ralph Lauren or J. Press, that is when I go to MARRKT.

It is honestly a daily talking point among my friends. We all know what each other likes, so if one of us spots something that a mate might want, we send it over. The Daily Drop email has become an event each lunchtime. It is something we all look forward to.

Shop Tom's zine Easy On The Ivy as well as a selection of some of his pre-owned items from the likes of The Real McCoy's...

Photography by Dan Watson